All you need to know about Vegan Leather

Vegan leather is quickly becoming a popular alternative to traditional animal leather, offering a cruelty-free, eco-friendly option for fashion and furniture. Made from a variety of materials, vegan leather provides the look and feel of real leather without the environmental and ethical concerns. In this article, we’ll explore everything you need to know about vegan leather, helping you make informed, sustainable choices for your lifestyle.

Understanding Vegan Leather

Vegan leather is essentially a synthetic material that is designed to mimic the look and feel of traditional leather, but without using any animal products. One of the main advantages of vegan leather is that it is cruelty-free, as no animals are harmed in its production. It is also more sustainable than traditional leather, as it does not require the use of animal hides, which can have a significant environmental impact.

However, it is important to note that not all vegan leather is created equal. Some companies may use harmful chemicals in the production process, which can have negative effects on both the environment and human health. It’s good practice to look for vegan leather that is produced using eco-friendly and non-toxic methods and many new companies are now focussing on plant based leather, made primarily from organic crop waste.

Vegan leather can broadly be categorized as Faux Leather or Plant Based Leather. 

The commonalities of Faux Leather and Plant Based leather are as follows 

• Ethical Focus: Vegan leather emerged in the past two decades, driven by a commitment to ethical sourcing. Designers like Stella McCartney champion sustainable materials that are not derived from animals. 
• Materials: Vegan leather can be crafted from various plant-based sources, including pineapple leaves (Piñatex), cork, mushrooms or even from plastic sources like recycled plastic bottles. Faux Leather, which is primarily made from PU or PVC, is also technically vegan leather.
• Fashion Adoption: Top fashion brands worldwide are embracing vegan leather, aligning with ethical practices and PETA-approved materials.
  

But there are more differences than commonalities between the two:

1. Faux Leather:

• History: Faux leather, also known as “pleather,” made its debut in the 1920s. It was created at an American rubber plant and affectionately dubbed “Naugahyde.” Naugahyde was a cost-effective alternative to real leather, coated in vinyl and textured to mimic genuine leather.
• Composition: Faux leather is typically made from plastic materials (such as polyurethane or polyvinyl chloride) and fabric backing. It imitates the look of leather but lacks the ethical and ecological considerations.
• Durability: While faux leather is affordable, it tends to be less durable than other alternatives. It’s often associated with fast fashion and disposable trends.
• Environmental Impact: Unfortunately, faux leather contributes to pollution, emitting volatile compounds and heavy metals into the air and groundwater.
• Bottom Line: Faux leather prioritizes cost-effectiveness over ethics and sustainability.

2. Plant-Based Leather:

• Eco-Friendly Alternative: Plant-based vegan leathers are pricier but offer a greener alternative to genuine leather. The process of making real leather involves cruelty and environmental harm, whereas plant-based vegan leather avoids these pitfalls.
• Toxin-Free: Unlike plastic leathers, plant-based options are toxin-free and don’t endanger our ecosystem.
• Materials: Plant-based leather are mostly derived from agricultural crop waste or natural organic materials and hence are the better choice since they prevent waste from entering landfills.
• Sustainability: Choosing plant-based leather supports a more sustainable fashion industry.
• Longevity: Plant based leathers tend to outlast traditional faux leather. For instance, Piñatex, made from recycled pineapple plants, not only lasts longer but also looks more realistic. Desserto® is a highly sustainable plant based material made from cactus, often distinguished by its great softness at touch while offering a great performance for a wide variety of applications and complying with the most rigorous quality and environmental standards.

How is Vegan Leather Made?

Synthetic leather is produced with different chemicals and a totally different industrial process to real leather. Bonding together a plastic coating to a fabric backing is the most common way to make faux leather; the types of plastic used in these coatings vary and this is what defines whether or not it is eco friendly.

Although PVC is in much less use than it was in the 1960’s and 70’s, it can still be found in the composition of some vegan leather. PVC releases dioxins, which are potentially dangerous in confined spaces and especially dangerous if burnt. It also uses plasticisers such as phthalates to make it flexible. Depending on the type of phthalate used, they’re extremely toxic. It has been described by Greenpeace as the “single most environmentally damaging type of plastic”.

The more modern and slightly less damaging plastic is PU, which is constantly being technically developed to reduce its flaws such as the hazardous toxins it releases during manufacturing and the oil based polymers it’s made with which make use of fossil fuels.

Plant based leathers on the other hand are made mostly from agricultural crop waste. For example, apple leather is made from apple peels which are ground into a powder and mixed with a binding agent. This mixture is spread out, pressed, and dried to create sheets of material that can be treated to resemble leather. Mushroom leather comes from mycelium, which is grown on a substrate, such as sawdust, in controlled conditions. Once it reaches the desired thickness, it is harvested, processed, and treated to create a leather-like material.The tomato leather sourced by Satu Hati is derived from cosmetically imperfect tomatoes, bought from local farmers. The tomatoes are processed to extract the pulp, which is then sun-dried to remove moisture, ensuring concentration of the material. The dried tomato pulp is subsequently finely ground into a powder and combined with biodegradable binding agents to form a cohesive mixture. This mixture is evenly spread over a base layer of cotton fabric and treated to enhance durability and flexibility. Finally, the material is embossed to create a texture that closely resembles traditional leather. This process not only transforms agricultural by-products into a valuable resource but also aligns with sustainable and ethical production practices, minimizing waste and environmental impact.

What Does Vegan Leather Smell Like?

Vegan/Faux leather that is made with PVC or PU often has a very strange smell from the chemicals. It’s often described as a ‘fishy’ smell and can often be very hard to get rid of. PVC can also outgas dangerous toxins that give off this nasty smell.

Plant based leathers though are crafted from natural materials such as cactus leaves, coconut, or apple peels and hence emanate a more natural scent. This pleasant aroma is a result of its organic origins and lack of harmful chemicals during production. 

What Does Vegan Leather Look Like?

Vegan leather comes in several different forms and qualities, so some are more ‘leather-like’ than others. Generally speaking, and focusing on good quality vegan leather, there isn’t that much difference to real leather. However, as vegan leather is synthetic, it doesn’t form a patina like real leather does when aging and it is much less breathable as the pores that are printed onto the surface of pleather are artificial.

Is Vegan Leather Good For The Environment?

Since we are discussing vegan leather in terms of faux leather and plant-based leather, it is important to understand the distinct environmental implications of each. Faux leather, though not derived from animals and thus advantageous for animal welfare, poses significant environmental and human health concerns due to the toxic substances in the plastics used for its production. The manufacturing and disposal processes of PVC-based synthetics release hazardous dioxins, which are known to cause developmental and reproductive issues, as well as cancer. Additionally, the synthetic materials used in vegan leathers do not fully biodegrade. While they can be partially broken down, they release toxic particles and phthalates during degradation, which can negatively impact animal health and the environment.

Plant-based leathers, on the other hand, offer significant environmental advantages over faux leathers. The benefits are twofold. Firstly, by utilizing agricultural crop waste, we effectively minimize landfill waste, diverting materials that would otherwise contribute to environmental pollution. Secondly, plant-based leathers result in products that are biodegradable, sustainable, and circular in nature. These materials decompose naturally, returning nutrients to the soil without releasing harmful toxins. The use of renewable resources in their production also reduces dependence on fossil fuels and lowers carbon emissions. This approach aligns with principles of a circular economy, creating a closed-loop system that supports environmental health and resource efficiency.

It is important to note that many plant-based leathers still incorporate a small percentage of plastic in their manufacturing process. However, as technology advances, we can expect to see an increase in 100% biodegradable, plastic-free options in the near future. For instance, Bio Leather in India produces PU/PVC-free leather made from tomato waste, demonstrating that fully sustainable alternatives are becoming more feasible and accessible

Is Vegan Leather Better Than Real Leather?

While “better” is a very subjective word, it is important to emphasize the quality and durability of vegan leather today is at par with real leather. Vegan leather is often a lot thinner than real leather and much more light weight which is great for fashion as it makes it potentially easier to work with, however the thinner options are less durable than real leather. A real, good quality leather jacket can last decades when cared for, whereas you might only get 4-5 years out of a pair of shoes made from good quality faux leather.

Faux leather, especially PVC based, isn’t breathable either whereas real leather has pores through which skin is able to breathe. So for clothing items such as jackets, vegan leather can be uncomfortable when worn for long periods of time.

Is Vegan Leather Easy To Maintain?

Most contemporary vegan leathers possess waterproof properties, facilitating easy maintenance through the use of mild detergents or simple wiping with a damp cloth. However, this waterproof nature also prevents conditioning products from penetrating the material, which can lead to desiccation and cracking, especially when exposed to prolonged sunlight or if the material is of substandard quality. Consequently, the optimal way to maintain vegan leather is through regular use. Extended periods of disuse can exacerbate the material’s susceptibility to drying and cracking, underscoring the importance of frequent usage to preserve the integrity of vegan leather accessories.

Is Vegan Leather Durable?

Vegan leather, especially when crafted from high-quality, innovative materials, is incredibly durable and designed to stand the test of time. Unlike traditional leather, which can degrade with prolonged exposure to moisture, many modern vegan leathers are water-resistant and less prone to wear and tear. Materials like bio-based leathers made from plants or agricultural waste not only offer impressive durability but also perform well in everyday conditions. Additionally, advancements in vegan leather technology have enhanced its strength, flexibility, and resilience, making it a practical and sustainable alternative without compromising on longevity.

How To Unwrinkle Vegan Leather?

It is crucial to avoid applying heat directly onto wrinkled faux leather, as this can cause significant damage. The appropriate method for wrinkle removal depends on the material’s quality. Most synthetic leathers contain plastic, which is highly sensitive to heat; direct exposure to high temperatures can irreparably damage the material. High-quality faux leathers can be steamed to remove wrinkles, provided they are protected with a sheet, towel, or lining between the leather and heat source. However, caution is still necessary, and it is important not to heat the faux leather for more than 15 seconds to prevent damage. 

How To Soften Vegan Leather?

Vegan leather is less permeable than natural leather, making traditional leather conditioning products largely ineffective for softening the material. Instead, a vinyl conditioner is generally recommended for this purpose. To apply, use a soft cloth to gently work the conditioner into the surface of the faux leather using small, circular motions. After application, any excess conditioner should be removed with a clean cloth, and the product should be left to air dry. This process can be repeated as needed to achieve the desired level of softness. However, it is important to avoid this method on embossed or textured vegan leather, as the conditioning process may alter or diminish the embossed texture.

Whether you’re a fashionista on the hunt for stylish vegan leather pieces or just curious about more sustainable alternatives, the world of eco-friendly fashion is bursting with innovative options. From plant-based leathers to recycled materials, the industry is moving towards a more circular, environmentally-conscious future. By choosing these alternatives, you’re not only making a statement with your wardrobe but also supporting a shift towards more responsible and ethical fashion practices. So next time you’re shopping, consider how your choices can contribute to a greener planet and explore the exciting possibilities of vegan leather and other circular fashion innovations. Your wardrobe—and the Earth—will thank you!